Ravioli hands roll the dough towards me. I sit at the rectangular, formica-topped table at Nanny’s, brush my white, sock-covered feet along the flour-dusted floor. Mom turns to my little sister, Maria, to find something to keep her busy with. My sisters and I are indoors on a winter day, and Mom needs to keep us out of her hair. Freezing New England, it’s much too cold to be outdoors in the yard. Otherwise, we’d be lying in the snow, waving arms to make wings on snow angels, packing snowballs to team two against two, or sticking tongues out to catch snowflakes, chins tilted up, red, woolen hats matching the red cheeks and noses of four girls.
The snow falls thickly outside the kitchen window that overlooks the driveway. Whispers of sun sprinkle through the frost layering the outer window side. Steam from hot food cooking on the stove, a roasted chicken and potatoes, onions, peppers, in the oven, warm bodies loving hard through cooking, steaming the inner window side. My elbows sit on the light-turquoise, silvery, metallic-flecked, swirled tabletop. Nanny flecks pasta dough with a swirl of her hand, swishes flour over a wooden rolling pin, flattens, smoothes the dough paper thin on the table. She is making raviolis by hand. Aunt LaLa pitches in.
“Here, Jeanne, take the fork. Pinch the edges all around to close up the dough, to hold the cheese inside. That’s it…all around,” says LaLa. Her broad shoulders strongly suggest leadership. She’s the boss of this Italian kitchen. Everyone listens to her and does what she says, including Nanny and Mom. I don’t mind obeying her as kindness shimmers, though I wonder how on earth does she get Mom to listen to her, as Mom won’t listen to anybody.
“Marie, grate the cheese.” LaLa hands Mom the parmesan cheese and the metal hand-grater with its sharp, raised, bumpy edge ready to greet and shave the wedge.
“Make a mound with the flour, then a hole in the center. Break the eggs, then pour them into the hole. Keep a finger bowl of water nearby! Add the olive oil – just a little! Take the fork – that’s it! Quick, quick, quick! Mix it together. Don’t let the eggs run…push the flour towards them. Fold them together. That’s it! Now, we knead.” LaLa runs the instructions to make more dough, as Nanny confirms, in Italian.
I don’t understand her Italian words, but get the gist of it. I watch Nanny’s hands, sticky-covered dough glues, then releases the flour mixture from her fingers. She kneads the dough into a ball. I watch Nanny’s motions, follow the English words sprinkled here and there, and learn how to make pasta dough. I get the job done along with her.
“Watch Nanny, Jeanne. That’s how you’ll learn,” directs Mom. Mom doesn’t need to tell me that. I’m already absorbed into the soothing motion, the pattern, the process of the flour as it turns into dough, then to pinched pockets of cheese.
“Take the glass, turn it in the dough, put the circles on the breadboard. Take a spoon – no, not the soup spoon, the teaspoon…that’s it! Put the ricotta cheese mixture on the circle of dough. Try to get some parsley into each ravioli. Not too much cheese, though, or they’ll break when they’re cooking in boiling water.” LaLa orders warmly, places her hand on my hand, turns the glass, shows me how to do it. She flits, like a mother bird, from sink, counter, table, stove, oversees the ravioli-making, cooks the gravy, chops the parsley, washes the dishes.
I turn an upside-down water glass into the flattened dough to cut the dough into circles, lift the circles out with a fork, put the cheese on one circle, place another on top, pinch it all together with the fork running ’round the edges. I learn the pattern of the ravioli, the routine needed to turn them out by the hundreds to feed our army of a family at a Christmas dinner.
The raviolis stack up on the lightly floured breadboards, the puffy pillows of dough and cheese build up a proud pile.
“Lavoro piacevole, Jeanne, avete imparato buon. Nice work, Jeanne, you learned good,” says Nanny. She tells LaLa that she’s tired, and goes to her bedroom to nap, alongside Grandpa.
LaLa gathers the scraps of dough and kneads them into a ball. She grabs a sharp knife and cuts the flattened dough into ribbons, for noodles. I place them on a wooden pasta drying rack that stands on green-striped dishtowels laid out on the washing machine. The noodles hang over wooden dowels, moist dough with flour flecks, and wait to dry overnight in the warm, moist-air kitchen.
On the counter, the percolator’s plugged in and the smell of coffee percolates the air as Mom fixes a slipping barrette in Maria’s hair, hands Barbara a star-shaped cookie with round, colored sprinkle dots on it, and tells Donna to go turn the t.v. on.
“Be quiet. Be good. Nanny’s sleeping,” says Mom.
Not one to talk much, I think, think, think. I don’t tell Mom that I think we already are good. Good, good, good, with Aunt LaLa, in Nanny’s kitchen.